06 Nov Symposium 2024: Of monuments and resistance - the invisible side of history
I feel like I've been caught out. How can it be that I don't know the answer to the question that Kodjo Valentin Gläser is asking us? 'ai,ai,ai.... makes me a little uncomfortable', I think to myself. I would claim that I know a lot about colonial history; in my arrogance, with my recently completed master's degree in intercultural studies, I would even have claimed to be some kind of expert in the field. "I'll give you a moment, maybe you can think of something," says Kodjo Valentin Gläser, the speaker of the lecture. But the room remains silent. No one knows the man whose face is projected large on the screen. And that's exactly what Gläser is getting at: that none of the people in the audience, people who grew up and socialized in Germany, went to school and learned about history there, that none of these people know the name that Gläser is about to reveal: it's Songea Mbano. That's when the penny drops for me. I know what it's all about, whose face is looking at us, distorted in pain, 2×3 meters in size in the hall of the Jenfeld Cultural Centre. I feel fine, because I'm actually quite clever after all. But could I now exactly say exactly who this person is? Why he is so central to Gläser's lecture on "Tanzania and the resistance... - a question of perspective." is? And above all: what does this have to do with postcolonial thinking?
Let's rewind briefly to the beginning, to the morning of October 13th. It's Sunday, the weather is mixed, 13 degrees, says the weather app. "But luckily warmer than last year!" Flower Manase, director of the National Museum in Dar es Salaam, and I joke as we wait at 64 Wilson Street. We were here last year, sheltering from the bad weather in Hamburg with rain capes. Some things have changed in Jenfeld since then, but many things have stayed the same. We are here today to talk about it; with neighbors from Jenfeld, with experts from Hamburg and Dar es Salaam. We want to see the park, in front of whose doors we are standing today, with different eyes.
First with a tour in which Marc Agten, educational mediator from Hamburg, talks about the hidden ideologies in the so-called Tanzania Park. And even if it seems obvious that monuments built by National Socialists spread racist myths, we still need to take a closer look to understand what is hidden here. Marc Agten speaks of a "community of fate" that is constructed through the monuments. Of a myth surrounding the monuments, that of a "loyal Askari", but also of racist Nazi ideologies that took up the ideas of colonialism. Words that many of the tour's participants have never heard before, words that many cannot relate to, but who nevertheless make an effort to follow. "We come from Jenfelder Au, which is right next door and we've wanted to come to one of your events for so long. Now we've finally made it!" a young couple will say to me later, after the tour is over.
Then the sun comes out, the rain stops and Flower Manase starts to speak. She doesn't want a microphone, preferring to talk directly to the group and speak from her personal perspective. She doesn't seem to be standing there as a curator, doctoral candidate or director of the National Museum, but as an activist, as a person with many years of experience in the fight for a postcolonial culture of remembrance. She focuses on the question of for whom and in what interest these monuments were created. And the time for reflection is now. Manase talks about the fact that the neighborhood is engaging in this debate and co-determining which park they want now and for the future. This requires self-reflection, both on a personal level and in terms of family history, says Manase, which does not only take place in schools. And the perspective of Tanzanian communities is also fundamental; one way to achieve this is a multilingual approach, in German, English and Kiswahili, in order to speak and work together on the new history of the park. What else is needed for this, one wonders at this point. Manase has an answer: we need a safe space for critical reflection for everyone. Organized at the community level, i.e. people who do not belong to the government or an institution, but to neighbors and communities. Perspectives and biographies must be made visible that have so far remained invisible, such as the Askaris or porters who can be seen on the monument. Manase speaks in a calm and level-headed manner, while at the same time carefully focusing on what is still missing when we talk about the park. He makes an appeal for further work and motivates us. At the same time, it becomes clear that simply redesigning the park is not the solution, at least that's what I take from her conversation. Rather, the way to get there is what we need to consider. Who is part of the conversation and who is left out.
Back to the lecture from the beginning by Kodjo Gläser. Now, almost 3 weeks later, I still have to google briefly if I want to reproduce the biography of Songea Mbano: resistance fighter against German foreign rule, MajiMaji war and genocide by the colonial power. I must honestly admit that I never knew anything about this before I started working on this project. And that is precisely why Kodjo Valentin Gläser is talking here in Jenfeld about a war of liberation that plays a central role in the Tanzanian culture of remembrance, but which receives little attention in the German collective memory. To break open and expand the perspectives and narratives of one-sidedness that we have cultivated in Germany for generations. Today, a resistance that shows: Even if we don't know them, there are many stories and biographies of heroines* in a struggle whose brutalities I cannot imagine and for whom recognition is still being fought for today. Learning means seeing and standing up for equality, being open and curious and, for me as a white German, above all, creating the space for others to stand back and be taught better.
The information day is coming to an end. Some people attended the program from morning to night, others came for the workshops "Privilege check - What role can I play in solidarity with others?" or "My, your, our memories" at the Jenfeld Haus. I'm glad to have the day behind me, the preparations were intense. "And how do you feel? Done?" My colleagues and fellow campaigners ask me. Good question, I think. A day like today isn't really an end, it's more of a beginning. More like a: Let's get out there and start a dialog. Create networks and look for allies in the district. I'm still exhausted, but I've also been caught out by not knowing enough again and am encouraged to keep going to fill in the gaps in my knowledge. I would therefore like to give the last word in this article to our guest Flower Manase: "The Park should not devide the communities but rather bring the communites together. Not only in Tanzania but also here in Hamburg. We as Tanzanians cherish unity without the element of racism".
Text by Lena Koch (Project Manager Tanzania Park* in Jenfeld, Salon International e.V.)